A country built for the bicycle
Nowhere else in the world is the bicycle such a natural part of daily life as in Denmark. For Danes the bike is not a sport or a hobby but an ordinary means of transport, used to get to work, to school, to the grocer's and to the café. The country is flat as a pancake – its highest natural point, Møllehøj, reaches only 170 metres – so almost everyone can cycle regardless of age or fitness. The wind can be a challenge along the west coast, but hills rarely are.
Cycling culture runs deep. As early as the beginning of the twentieth century the bicycle became the people's vehicle, and after the oil crises of the 1970s municipalities invested deliberately in cycling infrastructure. Today the country has more than 12,000 kilometres of cycle paths, often separated from car traffic by a kerb, which makes it safe even for children and first-time visitors.
Copenhagen – the world's cycling capital
The capital is repeatedly ranked among the world's most bike-friendly cities. More than half of Copenhageners cycle to work or study every day, and the city has more bicycles than inhabitants. In the morning the wide cycle tracks fill with a steady river of commuters – a scene that has become a symbol of Danish quality of life.
The city's landmark for cyclists is the Cykelslangen (the Bicycle Snake), an orange, curving cycle bridge from 2014 that floats over the harbour at Fisketorvet and carries riders elegantly across the water without mixing with pedestrians. Other iconic bridges such as Bryggebroen and the Inner Harbour Bridge knit the districts together, making it possible to cross the whole city by bike without meeting a single car.
- More than 400 km of cycle paths in Copenhagen alone
- Green waves – traffic lights timed to a cyclist's speed of 20 km/h
- City bikes and e-bikes can be hired everywhere through apps
The 11 national cycle routes
Outside the cities Denmark's great cycling network unfolds. There are eleven national cycle routes (Nationale cykelruter), marked with red and white signs, that together cover more than 4,000 kilometres. They lead the cyclist through dune landscapes, past Viking fortresses, along fjords and over bridges to the many islands.
The most famous is Route 1 – the West Coast Route, which runs about 560 kilometres along the North Sea from Rudbøl in the south to Skagen in the north. It forms part of the European EuroVelo 12 and offers endless beaches, lighthouses and rugged nature. Another favourite is the Baltic Sea Route (Route 8), which winds along the Baltic coast and connects islands such as Als, Funen and Zealand. Route 6 crosses the country from Esbjerg to Copenhagen.
Ferries, trains and island-hopping
The bicycle can travel almost everywhere. On most Danish domestic ferries the bike comes along free or cheaply, making it easy to hop from island to island. On DSB trains you may bring your bicycle for a modest ticket, and on the S-trains around Copenhagen it is often free outside rush hour. This combination of bike and public transport makes it possible to plan long journeys without pedalling every single kilometre yourself.
Practical tips for the cycling tourist
Denmark is one of the safest countries in the world to cycle in, but a few rules are worth knowing. Lights are compulsory after dark – both front and rear – and fines are high. You ride on the right, signal turns with your hand and respect pedestrians. A helmet is not compulsory but is recommended.
- Hire a bike in every larger town, often with a basket and lock
- Pack rain gear – the weather changes quickly
- Follow the red route signs and pick up free maps at tourist offices
- Book accommodation early in summer
Whether you want to commute like a true Copenhagener, follow the west coast from dune to dune or island-hop across the southern Funen archipelago, the bicycle is the ideal way to experience Denmark – slowly, close to nature and free.